Basic of rock Climbing Techniques
Written by Roger Ramires
Last updated: Dez 19, 2023 • 5 min read
Basic Move Techniques
A back step
is the opposite of a normal step.
Rather than placing your big toe on a hold with your hips squared to the wall, the backstep technique involves turning your hip to the side and stepping with the outside edge (little-toe side) of your shoe. Backstepping proves advantageous by bringing your hip in close proximity to the wall, facilitating the straightening of your arms for a rest. Moreover, it offers the necessary extension to reach elusive holds, making it particularly beneficial for conserving energy on steep and overhanging routes.
A drop knee
is a more extreme back step
Contrary to the conventional approach of placing your big toe on a hold with your hips facing the wall, backstepping involves turning your hip to the side and stepping with the outer edge (little-toe side) of your shoe. This technique proves advantageous in bringing your hip close to the wall, facilitating the straightening of your arms and creating an opportunity for a rest. Additionally, backstepping offers the extension needed to reach elusive holds and is particularly valuable for conserving energy on steep and overhanging routes.
Stemming is
pushing against two opposing surfaces.
Stemming is applicable in various scenarios, such as a chimney, a corner, or on a predominantly flat wall with a prominent feature. The technique involves employing a combination of hands and feet to create counter pressure, ensuring you stay balanced. Stemming taps into the strength of your larger leg muscles, making it an exceptionally efficient climbing method that not only aids in ascending but also offers opportunities for well-deserved rests along the way.
Flagging is
counter balancing by using a limb to shift your weight.
The primary objective is to prevent swinging away from the rock face. Flagging proves beneficial in situations where you're relying on holds situated exclusively on one side of your body. Since this concentration of weight can potentially lead to imbalance, flagging becomes a valuable technique. By extending one leg to the opposite side of your body, you effectively counterbalance the weight distribution, helping you maintain stability and control without veering away from the rock.
Lay-backing is
when you pull and lean off one side of a flake or a crack and push your feet against the other side
Laybacks stand out for their efficiency, utilizing straight arms while relying on the strength of your feet. In situations where the absence of substantial footholds necessitates smearing, it's advisable to maintain low heels to maximize the contact area between your climbing shoes and the rock surface.The layback technique proves beneficial whenever traditional jamming in a crack is impractical or when there's an available opposing wall to push against, such as in a dihedral crack. This method allows you to make effective use of opposing forces, making it a versatile choice in certain climbing scenarios.
A mantle is
when you push down on a hold and bring feet up to meet hands
A quintessential instance of mantling occurs at the summit of a climb when you must hoist yourself onto a ledge. The mantling technique involves pressing down on a hold to elevate your body weight above it, followed by transitioning your foot to assume the position previously occupied by your hand. Mantles become indispensable during the final moments of a climb, particularly when topping out. However, they also prove advantageous mid-climb, especially when confronted with a sizable handhold and the necessity to elevate your feet to a higher position.
Undercling
Like the name implies, an undercling is when you use the underside of a hold.
Employing underclings might initially seem counter-intuitive, as it involves pulling upward on the hold instead of the typical downward motion. A crucial element for effective undercling technique is to identify sturdy, elevated footholds. This allows you to sustain body tension by pushing with your feet while simultaneously pulling on the undercling. Maintaining high foot placement positions the hold around waist level, enabling you to keep your arms in a straighter position.When executed correctly, a well-utilized undercling places you in a stable posture, facilitating the extension needed to reach for additional elevation.
A side pull is
any hold that’s oriented for a sideways pull
The essential aspect of mastering a side pull lies in counterbalancing the lateral pull through strategic shifts in body weight or by applying a counter force. Similar to underclings, side pulls may initially feel awkward due to the need to align the direction of your pull with the hold's orientation. However, once you grasp this dynamic, it opens up a new dimension, allowing you to utilize holds in various directions, not solely those directly above you.
A gaston is:
the inverse of side pull.
In a side pull, the hold is set up for an inward pull toward yourself. On the other hand, a gaston is designed for a lateral force, necessitating an outward push. The body position for a gaston is reminiscent of attempting to open an elevator door, with the elbow bent and extending out to the side, while the fingers point inward.Executing gaston moves might feel less stable, as the primary force originates from the shoulder. Nevertheless, incorporating this technique into your skill set can significantly expand your climbing options on the wall.
Palming is:
the hand version of smearing.
You exert pressure against the rock using an open palm. Palming serves to enhance balance as you adjust your foot positioning, proving valuable in situations where suitable handholds are scarce. This technique becomes particularly useful during stemming, enabling you to counteract the lack of features on a smooth surface. Moreover, when tackling slab climbs, employing fingers-down palming becomes especially advantageous.
