Written by Roger Ramires
Last updated: Oct 28 , 2023 • 2 min read
Refining your footwork in climbing is all about increasing precision, efficiency, and confidence. Here are some tips to improve footwork and make the most of each move:
Aim to place your toes exactly where you want them, instead of blindly stepping. Look at each foothold and visualize where your toe should go before making contact.
Try aiming for the "sweet spot" of the foothold, usually the center or outer edge for better grip and balance.
Stand on the toes or the ball of your foot rather than the middle.
This gives more range of motion in your hips and allows you to pivot more effectively.Avoid “smearing” unnecessarily by practicing balancing on small holds with your toes.
Train yourself to move quietly by placing each foot softly. This forces you to stay controlled and deliberate, which translates into precise foot placement.
Make it a drill: climb easy routes and challenge yourself to make no noise with your feet.
Practice switching feet on the same hold without losing balance. Mastering quick foot swaps can save energy and prepare you for tricky moves.
To practice, find a wall and repeatedly place your left foot over your right, and vice versa, without removing your foot from the hold.
Keeping your hips close reduces strain on your arms and increases control over foot placement.
Use your feet to “stick” close to the wall by leaning in from your center of gravity.
Edging: Use the edge of your shoe on small holds to gain stability. The outside edge helps on straight moves, while the inside edge works well when stepping up.
Smearing: Useful on slabs or low-friction surfaces. Place your whole foot against the rock for maximum surface area and friction.
One-Legged Climbing: Climb a route while focusing on using only one leg, switching between feet. This increases awareness and precision.
Foot-Specific Routes: Climb with the goal of only using certain holds, like footholds only on the left side or ones higher up, to refine flexibility and balance.