Written by Roger Ramires
Last updated: Nov 01 , 2024 • 2 min read
Technique: Crimping involves placing the fingertips on a small edge and curling the fingers with the thumb wrapped over for added pressure (full crimp) or keeping the thumb relaxed (half crimp).
Conserve Strength: Crimps can put a lot of strain on the fingers, so use them sparingly. Rely on half-crimps when possible to reduce finger fatigue.
Build Strength Gradually: Incorporate fingerboard training but with caution, as crimps can lead to injury if overused
Grip Lightly: Jugs provide generous support, so keep a relaxed grip. Gripping too hard will tire out your forearms quickly.
Use for Resting: When you find a jug, use it as a rest hold. Relax your grip, shake out your other hand, and give your muscles a quick break.
Spread the Fingers: Instead of gripping, press down with an open hand. Spreading your fingers increases friction, helping you stay balanced on these low-grip holds.
Engage Your Core: Slopers demand balance and core strength rather than grip power. Adjust your body positioning and use your core to stick to the wall.
Stay Calm: Avoid gripping harder; instead, focus on staying centered to maintain tractio
Squeeze, Don’t Pull: Use your thumb and fingers to apply pressure from both sides of the pinch. This is especially effective on volumes or larger holds with edges.
Thumb Engagement: Pinches can be tiring but are great for building thumb strength. Engage the thumb actively and use your shoulders to reduce hand strain.
Practice Transitions: When moving off pinches, maintain balance to prevent a swing, as pinches often require body tension.
Dynamic Grip: This involves quickly adjusting your grip as you move to another hold. Practice this to adapt efficiently to varying holds mid-route.
Static Holds: Holding onto a grip without moving is essential for endurance. Practice staying still on a variety of hold types to build stability and prevent grip fatigue.